By Sharon Kiburi
Lokichar, Turkana: The preparation of food and the significance we attribute to these processes are intricately shaped by culture. In Northern Kenya lies the Turkana community, a distinct group recognized for their resilience and ability to endure the challenging conditions of hot, arid landscapes.
Lokichar, situated in Turkana County, faces water scarcity and the sandy soil renders traditional agriculture impractical. In response, the local communities have embraced a nomadic lifestyle centered around livestock, particularly cattle, goats, and sheep, as a primary source of sustenance, relying on meat and milk for survival.
John Barak, a resident of Lokichar and a community environmental activist with the Kenya Oil and Gas Working Group, expressed, “Turkana people have a deep affection for meat, and our traditional method of preparation is truly captivating.”
He guided our group to the Esenyaniat Assembly, a gathering place for communal discussions. It struck Barak that I was the sole female participant, a departure from the Turkana tradition where women are excluded from general assembly deliberations unless specifically invited by an elder to address certain issues.
Arriving at the Esenyaniat Assembly, I anticipated extending greetings and capturing images of this unique gathering under a tree where most meetings happen due to the hot weather in Turkana.
The unexpected attention led to a diversion by Muturi Kamau, the coordinator of the Kenya Oil and Gas Working Group, who engaged them in lively conversation about an upcoming goat roasting event that evening. I was introduced as a curious photographer eager to explore their culture, I was welcomed, and the atmosphere became conducive for photography.
As night fell, we joined the elders for the goat roasting event on an open ground. I observed with awe as the men meticulously arranged stones and distinct leaves to form the roasting setup. Three goats were brought to the center, and an appointed elder stepped forward with a gleaming sharp knife.
Contrary to my assumptions of a traditional goat slaughter, the elder skillfully pierced the upper front leg, causing the goat to bleed out. This process was repeated for the remaining two goats, and they observed as the animals met their fate.
Collaborating with two other men, the elder proceeded to open the stomach of the goats, leaving the skin intact. The goats were then placed in the fire for roasting without removing the skin.
When I inquired about this unconventional method, the elders explained that the skin enhances the flavor with saltiness and spiciness. Despite the absence of additional seasoning, the roasted meat proved to be remarkably flavorful, a testament to the Turkana’s unique and time-honored approach to meat preparation.
